Hana Skalická
Grafika
Pamplona aneb Hemingwayova Fiesta
Středa,
06.06.2012
78 km

Dnesek nezacal moc hezky, protoze hned po probuzeni, jsem zjistila, ze me v noci okradli. Zlodej mi sebral vsechny hotove penize, tj. asi 400 EUR. Byl "hodny", protoze doklady a platebni karty mi nechal. No, tak aspon nemusim na Policii kvuli dokladum. Jsem nastvana, ale snazim se zachovat si chladnou hlavu a premyslim, jestli byl zlodej tak dumyslny, ze si opsal cisla platebnich karet vcetne bezpecnostnich kodu, aby s nimi mohl platit na internetu. Zda se mi to malo pravdepodobne, ale nechci to nechavat nahode, tak pro jistotu volam do banky, aby mi zrusili moznost plateb pres internet u obou karet, ktere mam. Banka nastesti zareaguje promptne a platby pres internet zruseny. Karty zablokovany snad nejsou, protoze to si nemuzu dovolit, musim si jit vybrat cash do bankomatu.

Pitomej penzion El Peregrino, nelibil se nam uz vcera, jenze jsme nemohly dal, tak nam nezbylo nez tam zustat. No, ponauceni pro priste, ze kdyz se spi v alberge nebo necem podobnem, penize na noc sebou do spacaku. Ja jsem mela ve spacaku jen mobil, moje penezenka v podobe brasny a la zachranarskeho psa zustala polozena na batohu. V mistnosti jsme spali 4, tak me nenapadlo, ze by to nekdo mohl vzit. Ja, Zuzka, starsi asi 60 lety Francouz a cca 40 lety Turek. Vecer jsme se na terase bavili jeste s jednim Nemcem, ktery spal vedle v pokoji, a na toho mam ja osobne nejvetsi podezreni. Tvrdil, ze je pravnik, ale nevedel ani, ze se Ceskoslovensko rozdelilo. Kdyz jsme rekly, ze jsme Cesky, zeptal se, jestli jsme z Ceskoslovenska. Tak jsem mu odpovedela, ze Ceskoslovensko uz neni, ze jsme dva samostatne staty. "A od kdy?", zeptal se. "Je to uz dvacet let", odpovidam. Pripomnelo mi to scenku, kterou jsem zazila pred 9 lety ve Svedsku, kam jsem prijela na studentsky pobyt Erasmus. Jeli jsme z nadrazi na kolej a nejaka Americanka z Floridy se me zeptala: "Where are you from?" "I am from the Czech Republic", odpovedela jsem. A ona na to: "Oh, is not it one of the States?" A ja na to: "No, it`s in Europe". "Oh, really???" Znela jeji odpoved. No, u Americanu, Africanu nebo Australanu bych to jeste pochopila, ale ze nas soused Nemec nebude tusit, ze uz nejsme Czechoslovakia, tak to je fakt husty. Jakmile jsem zjistila, ze penize nemam, sla jsem se zeptat celeho osazenstva penzionu, jestli o tom nekdo neco nevi. Vsichni se zdesene divali, jen ten Nemec s takovym zvlastnim usmevem prohlasil: "Ale kreditni karty a doklady, mas, ne?" Jo, ale jak to Ty muzes vedet? Rikam si v duchu. Moje podezreni, ze to udelal on, je zalozene jen na mem pocitu, zadny dukaz samozrejme nemam. I proto jsem nedelala zadnou scenu ve stylu ukaz batoh. Ale mozna jsem mela. A pak ze tu jsou sami Mirkove Dusinove.

Na prvni zastavce v moc hezke restauraci u cesty, kde jsem si dala konecne tu pravou tortillu, na kterou jsem zvykla (Zuzka me zalozila, protoze karty tam nebraly, takze diky Zuzi), kde se k nam zase nachomytl ten Nemec se Zuzky po to, co jsem si odskocila, zeptal: "Kde je Tvoje pritelkyne? Sla brecet pro 400 EUR?" Fakt blbec. To nejde rict jinak, a to se jeste ovladam.

Cesta dnes byla moc hezka, odpocinkova, vetsinou lesem podel reky Argy. Potkaly jsme dva Slovaky, kluka a holku, jsou moc fajn. Az konec cesty nas trochu zaskocil, protoze jsme sly dlouho mestem. Nebyla to Pamplona, Villava, neboli mesto, na ktere Pamplona navazuje.

Dnes mame odpocinkovy den, usly jsme jen 20 km. Jelikoz treti den byva kriticky, davame si Hemingwayovu Fiestu. Ubytovaly jsme se v albergue v historickem centru Pamplony, je to stary klaster a je to fakt nadherne! Pereme pradlo a hned potom vyrazime do mesta. Takze jestli budu mit silu, dopisu sem jeste neco vecer po navratu (je tu vecerka ve 23.00 h, a opustit albergue musime nejdele v 7.30 h), takze nevim, jestli budu mit vecer silu. Kdyztak zase priste.

Tak silu jsem jeste nasla, a to i pres dve sangie a jedno pivo, ktere jsme si daly pred a po vynikajici kureci paelle v Pamplone na hlavnim namesti. Prosly jsme cele historicke centrum, a je to tu fakt moc moc pekne. Samozrejme s tim, jak cas pribyval, pribyvalo i zivota ve spanelskych ulicich. Je to tu jako v jinem svete. Kolem devate hodiny se schazi vsichni venku, studenti posedavaji pred bary na zemi a povidaji a je jich tolik, ze zaplni zpravidla cele namesticko, kde je bar. Vzpominam na cas straveny se Zdendou v Seville. Hm... bylo to fakt super. Nejradsi bych si dala dalsi Erasmus, ale tentokrat ve Spanelsku. Jdeme se podivat na mestske hradby a slysim zvuky flamenga. To mi neda, to musim videt a slyset zblizka, jdu po zvuku prave spanelske kytary. Na hradbach za zatackou spatrim kytaristu, zpevaka a sest tanecnic. To je parada. Vzpominam na sveho ucitele kytary, jak mi rikal, ze drzim kytaru jako flamengovi hraci na pravem stehne (tj. pro klasickou kytaru zcela spatne, ta musi sedet pekne na levem). Zacina se mi varit krev v zilach, hrozne se chci pridat k tomu veseli, co vidim kolem sebe. Jsem ted ale poutnik, co musi byt v albergue nejdele v jedenact vecer. Inu, na probdele spanelske noci sem budu muset dorazit priste. A hned po navratu z konce sveta se v Praze zapisu na tanecni kurz flamenga.

Pamplona
Komentáře:
06.06.2012
18:15
Koho neokradli nebyl ve Španělsku

Hola peregrina,

musíš říkat „tortilla de patatas“, pak to bude fungovat. A že nechceš bocadillo, pak to nedostaneš do bagety.

Jsou holt „albergues“, kde na tom místní takhle rejžujou. V soukromí jsem tenkrát platil maximálně 8 a to už stálo za to. Zkus nějaký albergue parroquial, třeba ten ve Vianě nebo ten kus za Puente la Reina, jsem ti myslím ty tipy psal.

No vidíš, koho neokradli, ten nebyl ve Španělsku. Mně se to taky dlouho vyhýbalo, až před 3 roky jeli jsme ze Sevilly bez bočních okýnek. A lezeckého vybavení, které zůstalo přes noc v kufru.

Nenech si zkazit náladu. Příště bych volal policajty. Resp. žádný příště nebude, peníze a doklady do spacáku. Otázka je, co by vzal, kdyby tam bylo jen padesát...

Ultreia!

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