Hana Skalická
Grafika
Leon III aneb město, odkud se poutníkům nikdy nechtělo
Pátek,
22.06.2012

Jiz stredoveci kronikari ve svych kronikach uvadeli: "Kdyz uz nekdo do Leonu vstoupi, musi tu par dni zustat, i kdyz to puvodne vubec nemel v umyslu". Tato nekolik staleti stara veta presne vystihuje moji soucasnou situaci.

Nejprve jsem se chtela vyfotit na lavicce s Antoni Gaudim pred Casa Botines - tj. domem, ktery zde v Leonu navrhl, ale ktery nebyl tak dobre ohodnocen, jak doufal, tak ho pred nej posadili na lavicku, aby se na nej dival. Traduje se, ze Gaudi tehdy znechucen stavbu opustil nedokoncenou. Dnes v dome sidli Caja España (banka) a nechapu, co se na tom dome komu nelibi. Neni to sice Sagrada Família, ale i tak vypada super. Posezenim s Gaudim jsem chtela zapocit historickou prohlidku Leonu, coz se mi vsak vzhledem k absolutni obsazenosti teto lavicky anglickymi turisty nepodarilo. Historickou prohlidku Leonu jsem tedy trochu odsunula a sla, kam me srdce tahlo :-)

Damy asi pochopi, ze me kroky nejprve vedly do obchodniho domu El Corte Ingles. Vzpominky na Sevillu a nakupovani v tomto obchodaku jsou proste tak silne, ze jim nelze odolat. Kdyz jsem od recepcni dostala mapu Leonu s reklamou na Andaluciu s vyobrazenim Giraldy na zadni strane, smer byl jasny.

Nejprve jsem sla kolem takove historicke zdi, ktera vede podel cele ulice Avenida de la Independencia. Ze by pozustatky mestskych hradeb pripominajicich hladovou zed? Po asi 5 min chuze po Avenida Alcade Miquel Castano a dale ulici Las Fuentes dochazim k obchodnimu domu El Corte Ingles. Je obrovsky. Vchazim dovnitr a nestacim doslova valit oci nad siri a kvalitou sortimentu.

Ackoli jsme vsichni v EU, takovy vyber v Cechach opravdu nemame. I proto jezdime s rodinou obcas nakupovat do Nemecka. Sortiment, ktery vidim v El Corte Ingles v Leonu, by i pracovnici Karstadtu v Drazdanech mohli tomuto obchodaku zavidet. Vypada to vlastne docela podobne, jen spanelske zbozi je vic sik a sexy. Tohle spanele umeji. Samozrejme jsem opet nevhodne oblecena, respektive blbe si nepripadam jen v oddeleni sportovniho zbozi a zbozi pro teenagery. Prochazim kolem oddeleni s luxusnim damskym oblecenim a i diky pohledum nekterych prodavacek, ktere jsou samozrejme obleceny umerne tomu, co prodavaji, se snazim zde moc nezdrzovat. Kdyz spatrim blankytnemodre dlouhe elegantni saty, zapomenu vsak, v cem jsem dnes oblecena ja, zastavim se a ziram na figurinu. Tyto saty by se perfektne hodily na svatbu meho brachy. Navic hned vedle nich jsou vystaveny boty a kabelka stejne barvy. Prodavacka si vsimne meho pohledu a zamiri ke mne. Ja vsak s omluvnym usmevem odchazim. I kdyby mi ty saty padly, preci je neponesu az do Santiaga! Chvilku jeste premyslim, ze bych je poslala domu postou, ale pak tento napad zavrhnu. Bude lepsi spojit prijemne s uzitecnym a do Spanelska si zajet (uz nikoli jako poutnik) jeste jednou. Vybrala bych si i v oddeleni nabytku, ale to uz opravdu nevim, jak bych stehovala az do Mlade Boleslavi. Kdyz uz si tu neco koupim, pak to musi byt neco, co vyuziju na ceste. Po nekolika hodinach vahani svou touhu po nakupovani uspokojuji svetle modrym polo trickem. Tricka s kratkym rukavem mam totiz sebou jen tri a z toho jedno cerne, pricemz v tom cernem se tu behem dne opravdu neda chodit. Kdyz jsem to 2x zkusila, vzdy jsem si zadelala na upal.

Po prochazce obchodnim domem mam zizen. Co s tim? Usedam do Cerveceria Gambrinus, ktera je hned vedle El Corte Ingles. Jake to prekvapeni, kdyz zjistuju, ze tu nemaji Gambrinus. Maji tu spoustu zahranicnich piv (Guiness, Legado de Yuste, Paulander Salvator, Affligem Blond, Murphy s Irish Red, Fischer, Paulander Original Munchner, Paulander Hefe-Weissbier), jen ne ten Gambrinus, ani zadne jine ceske pivo. Davam si tedy stare dobre spanelske Cruzcampo. Nejdriv se snazim mluvit anglicky, ale obsluha vubec nerozumi, tak konecne uplatnim svou frazi: "una cerveza, por favor". Obsluha se pta: "caña de cerveza"? A ackoli jen tusim, ze tim mysli tocene pivo do sklenice, odpovidam: "si", a skutecne jedno tocene dostavam. A to neni vsechno. Jako bonus mi slecna prinasi bramburky. Kdyz do jednoho z nich kousnu, jsem mile prekvapena. Neni to obycejny bramburek, jaky znam. Uvnitr je zapeceny pikantni salam. Hmm, k pivu fakt namka.

Posilnena spanelskym pivem a bramburky se pres park Jardin El Chantre vydavam smer Plaza de Toros. Kdyz jsem ve Spanelsku, musim prece videt corridu aspon zvenci! Pote se vydavam podel sve oblibene reky zpet k hotelu. Je to stale ta sama reka, kolem ktere jsem sla vcera, jenom jdu k tomu samemu mostu z druhe strany. Podel obou brehu reky je opet park, v nemz je spousta detskych hrist a posilovacich stroju, na nichz cvici deti i dospeli ruzneho veku a ruzneho obleceni. Ze tu cvici svalovec ve sportovnim obleceni, se ani nedivim, ale ze tu uvidim i babicku ve slavnostnich satech, to me prekvapuje. Kousek dal starsi deda rovnez v "nedelnich satech" posiluje nohy. Hm... proc vubec chodit do posilovny, kdyz lze cvicit venku na cerstvem vzduchu u reky a navic zadarmo? Proc neco takoveho neni take u nas?

Kracim pomalu podel reky a opet sleduju, jak skacou ryby. Je jich tu opravdu pozehnane. Najednou ke mne pribehne nejaky kluk a zve me do kina. Za chvili u me zastavi cyklista, kteremu z repraku hraje velmi rytmicka spanelska hudba, a zve me do baru na neco studeneho k piti. Obe pozvani odmitam. Prvni kluk vsak na to: "Just kiss" a nez se nadeju, pristanou mi na tvarich dve spanelske pusy. Hm... co se to tem Spanelum dneska deje? Jindy bych asi nektere z tech pozvani prijala a popovidala si s nimi, ale dnes jsem rada, ze tu jsem sama se sebou a mam cas premyslet.

Usedam na lavicku do parku vedle reky a jen tak se divam kolem sebe. Na konci parku u silnice vidim Rektorat Univerzity Leon a vzpomenu si na kolegy ze skoly. O kousek dal sleduji dve policistky, jak nekomu davaji pokutu za parkovani. "Uplne jak v Boleslavi", vybavim jak mi policiste tesne pred odletem sem na camino rovnez nadelili listecek za spatne parkovani, resp. za parkovani bez listku. A to pred domem, kde bydlim a kde se od 8.00 do 18.00 h musi platit za parkovani. Rezidentni karta v teto ctvrti je zrejme jen pro vyvolene, mezi nez nepatrim, tedy soude podle toho, ze jsem ani po 5 letech zadani rezidentni kartu nedostala, prestoze jsem rezident. Prijdu k autu v 8.12 h a uz tam mam listecek. To je absolutne sileny.

Po prichodu do pokoje opet slysim z venci hrat zivou hudbu. Opet tedy jdu za zvukem tentokrat lidovych pisni. Na podiu je krome hudebniku i dost tanecniku. Zpiva vsak takovy deda, kteremu to dost ujizdi, tak se jdu podivat na Gaudiho, jestli tentokrat bude volny. Ano, je! Konecne se tedy vedle nej mohu na chvilku posadit a pokochat se pohledem nejen na nej, ale i na Casa Botines.

Je krasny zapad slunce a teplo, takze se mi jeste nechce do hotelu. Zabredavam tedy do malych ulicek historicke casti mesta. Opet vidim hezky osvetlenou katedralu, kterou dnes oproti vcerejsku obchazim celou kolem dokola. Jsem mile prekvapena, kdyz u zadni strany katedraly narazim na nejakou slavnost. Hudebnici ladi nastroje, cepuje se pivo, rozleva vino, vsichni se raduji. Najednou kolem me prochazi holka s modrou kytarou. Jezis, taky jsem si preci chtela koupit modrou kytaru. Uz 7 let to odkladam! Proboha proc? Co mi v tom celou tu dobu branilo?

Po chvili uslysim takovy zvlastni hluk - jakoby buraceni motoru. Jsme ale na pesi zone, tak se tomu prinejmensim divim. Jakmile zajdu za roh, pochopim. Je tu sraz motorkaru Harley Davidson! Parada. Bezstarostna jizda vedla prave kolem meho hotelu, takze jsem spolu s motorkari krasne dosla do cile me dnesni etapy.

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